DUKAI

Tuna, Caper & Anchovy Espuma

Espuma di Tonno, Capperi e Acciughe

A tonnato emulsion, stabilised with gelatine and charged in a siphon.

The classic tonnato profile, lifted and aerated. Light and mousse-like, not a foam of bubbles that collapses on the plate.

10 to 12 portions

Cook this

Taste it before it goes into the siphon and make it slightly over-seasoned. Foam dulls both salt and acidity. If it is flat, more lemon. If it is too salty, more stock.

Chef Paul Dukai

Ingredients

  • Good quality tuna in oil, drained200 g
  • Anchovy fillets, oil-packed6 to 8
  • Capers, rinsed40 g
  • Egg yolks3 each
  • Dijon mustard10 g
  • Lemon juice30 ml
  • White grape vinegar10 ml
  • Neutral oil, grapeseed150 ml
  • Light chicken stock, warm120 ml
  • Cream, lightly reduced80 ml
  • Gelatine sheets, gold strength2 each
  • White pepper
  • Garlicoptional, a tiny clove, blanched

Method

The base

  1. Bloom the gelatine in cold water.

  2. Into the Thermomix: the tuna, anchovies, capers, egg yolks, mustard, lemon juice and vinegar. Blend at speed 8 for 1 minute.

  3. Scrape down, then emulsify at speed 5, streaming the oil in slowly through the lid. You are building a light tonnato emulsion.

Lighten and stabilise

  1. Heat the stock and cream gently. Do not boil them.

  2. Dissolve the bloomed gelatine into the warm liquid.

  3. With the Thermomix running at speed 4 to 5, pour the warm mixture in slowly, and blend for 30 to 45 seconds until completely smooth.

  4. Taste and correct now, slightly over-seasoned, before it goes any further.

Strain and charge

  1. Pass through a fine chinois and then muslin. Zero particles: this is what prevents the siphon clogging, and it is not optional.

  2. Pour into a 0.5 L or 1 L siphon and charge with 2 cartridges for a stable foam. Shake well.

  3. Rest in the fridge for a minimum of 2 hours, ideally 4 to 6.

  4. Serve slightly cool rather than fridge cold. Too cold and the foam is tight, too warm and it collapses.

Chef’s notes

  • What to avoid: too salty before the siphon, which cannot be corrected afterwards; not straining, which clogs the siphon mid-service; no stabiliser, which collapses the foam; too thick to aerate, or too thin and watery.
  • Balance: the anchovy in the background rather than dominant, lemon lifting everything, the fat emulsified rather than heavy, and a texture that is cloud-like but structured.
  • Plating directions from the source: a soft quenelle dispensed into a spoon; piped alongside sliced veal rather than on top of it; or as dots or a line with fried capers, preserved lemon brunoise and celery leaf.

Keeping

DUKAI storage guidance

It contains raw egg yolk, so it is held at 5°C or below and used within 24 hours. The rest of 2 to 6 hours in the siphon is part of making it, not storage.

Allergens and diet

Fish, tuna and anchovy. Eggs. Mustard. Milk. Sulphites, from the vinegar.

Last refined · September 2026